Fridge Repair in Hamilton

How we fix it

We pull the fridge out and take off the rear access panel to reach the sealed system. From there we test the evaporator fan motor and the compressor start relay for continuity, and check the condenser coils aren't clogged, so we don't blame the compressor for what's really an airflow or dirty-coil issue. If the relay or fan motor reads out of spec, we replace it rather than nurse it along, since a patched one usually fails again within a few months. Once the new part is in, we let the fridge run and watch the temperature settle before we sign off.

How we fix it

Most leaks look the same on the floor, so the first step is finding the real source. We check the defrost drain for a freeze-up or blockage, inspect the drain pan for cracks, and run the water line and inlet valve to rule out a plumbing leak before we touch anything. A cracked pan or a split line gets replaced, not sealed up, because a patched plastic part rarely holds once it's been stressed. After the repair we push water through the system and watch the drain and the connections to confirm it stays dry.

How we fix it

The noise can come from either fan, the compressor, or something as simple as ice touching a blade, so we open the back and the freezer panel to isolate it. We spin each fan by hand, check the motor bearings, and look for ice contact or a loose mount before deciding what's actually at fault. A fan motor with worn bearings is better replaced than re-oiled, since the noise comes straight back otherwise, while a loose panel or an unlevel unit is just adjusted at no extra part cost. We run it again afterwards to make sure the noise is gone and nothing new has appeared.

How we fix it

Heavy frost almost always traces back to the defrost system, so we take off the freezer's interior back panel to reach the heater, thermostat and timer. We test the heater and thermostat for continuity and confirm the timer or control board is actually cycling, which rules out a door-seal or drain problem causing the same symptom. A defrost heater or thermostat that fails the test gets replaced, since these can't be reliably repaired and a fresh one restores the proper cycle. Then we check the gaskets, clear the drain, and run a full defrost cycle to confirm it clears the way it should.