Stove & Cooktop Repair in Hamilton

How we fix it

A gas burner that clicks but won't catch is usually a dirty or wet igniter, or a burner cap clogged with spillover, so we clean those and dry everything out before changing any parts. If it still won't light, we test the spark module and the igniter for a proper spark and check the gas valve is opening, all of which we handle safely since we're certified for gas. A cracked igniter or a failed spark module gets replaced rather than cleaned and refitted, because a part that's already arcing wrong will only get more unreliable. Then we relight every burner and watch for a steady blue flame before we leave.

How we fix it

When one element stays cold, we pull it and check the receptacle it plugs into, since a burned terminal is just as common as a dead element and looks the same from the top. We test the element and the infinite switch for continuity to find out which one has actually gone, rather than guessing and ordering the wrong part. A burned-out element or a scorched receptacle gets replaced, because a heating element can't be repaired and a charred connector will only arc worse over time. After the swap we run the element up to temperature and check it heats evenly before we hand it back.

How we fix it

A burner that only runs full blast or won't come down low usually has a failed infinite switch behind the knob, so we pull the control panel to reach it. We rule out a worn knob or a shorted element first, since either can fake the same symptom, before condemning the switch. A failed switch gets replaced rather than adjusted, because the contacts inside wear out and a tweaked one drifts back to misbehaving within weeks. Once the new switch is in we run the burner across low, medium, and high to confirm it tracks the dial properly.

How we fix it

First we rule out the cookware, since induction only works with magnetic-base pans and a quick fridge-magnet test settles it before we open anything. If the pans are fine, we lift the top and check the pan-detection sensor and the connections to the power board, which is where the fault usually sits. A failed power board or a burnt IGBT gets replaced rather than reflowed, because a board that's already overheated once tends to fail again and a new one is the more reliable fix. We finish by testing each zone with a proper pan and confirming it detects, heats, and holds its setting.